Oct 05

New Rose Bubble Tip Anemone (RBTA)

Picked up an RBTA at the LFS today. It is the first anemone I’ve ever owned so let’s see how it goes!

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Click To Enlarge

The goal will be to see if our pair of Pink Skunk Clownfish use it as their host.

Sep 16

Male Blue Jaw Trigger (Xanthichthys auromarginatus)

Currently in the Quarantine Tank! We just got a new Blue Jaw triggerfish from Marinescape this past friday Sept 11, 2009.

Will post more pics when he’s in the display tank.

Click To Enlarge

Click To Enlarge

Aug 06

Bye Henry

Henry (Click to enlarge)

Henry (Click to enlarge)

After a long extensive battle through Ich. Our favourite fish went to his ocean in the sky. Henry, our Kole Tang baddled ICH on and off for about a month.

You can see his two pages here:

Kole Tang Update
Kole Yellow Eye Tang (Ctenochaetus strigosus)

Jun 22

Aussie Acan Added Today!

Just found a great Acan coral at OttawaInverts.ca. This coral typically grows very flat but I found one that is in a nice ball shape! From input I’ve gathered on ReefCentral so far it seems to be a rare find!

I purchased it mostly because of it’s bright Red colour. It opened up right away after being introduced and I will be feeding it for the first time tonight.  I’ll try to post more Pics when I get the chance.

New Acan

New Acan

More information coming soon!

Jun 10

Kole Tang Update

It’s been a while since we have posted updates on our Kole Tang! I am happy to say he is loving life. Eats like a machine, loves all of the algae on the glass and has his own unique personality.

Without a doubt my personal favourite in the tank!

Here are some updated pictures:

Kole 1 Kole 2
Kole 3 Kole 4

Jun 10

Bye Bye Royal Gramma

Over the last Month, the agression of our Royal Gramma has elevated to the point of no return. After experiencing World War III first hand last night in the Tank I had to devise a plan to remove the Gramma.

Agressive Royal Gramma

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Removing this fish was going to be the next battle…

Over the period of a week, I had began noticing that the gramma always “sleeps” in one specific cave in the live rock. In order to remove it, I waited until lights out, immediately the Royal Gramma went into his hole.

I grabbed a net and covered the only exit, removed the entire peice of rock (Thank god it was one near the top) and placed it in the sump over night.

The next morning he was placed in a bag and brought back to the store for a credit!

Apparently these species of fish are mostly peicefull. The owner at the LFS said that they never see that type of agression coming from the Royal Grammas.

Maybe we had an extreme case, but we are glad we got him out.  As a result, the tank is lacking some colour. We are going to be adding a new colourful fish in the upcoming weeks. Possibly another type of Basslet or Wrasse.

May 22

Clown Goby, Yellow (Gobiodon okinawae)

Just added yesterday May 21, 2009 is a Yellow Clown Goby. This fish is about a half inch long but is very cute and active in the tank so far. Hopefully he’ll stay away from the pumps and overflows while he grows his extra half inch!

Lemon GobyMore Information:

The Yellow Clown Goby is a cheerful addition to any marine aquarium. In addition to its vibrant body color, the active and peaceful Yellow Clown Goby is often seen perched on live rock or coral right out in the open or hovering in the water column in plain view for hobbyists to enjoy. Though the adult size is a mere 1-1/2″ in length, the stocky shape and very large head gives the Yellow Clown Goby a quiet, yet commanding presence in the home aquarium.

Native to the reefs of the Indo-Pacific, Gobiodon okinawae usually congregates among soft and hard coral colonies. Since the Yellow Clown Goby is peaceful, it makes a wonderful addition to any reef aquarium containing colonies of polyp corals. Here, this member of the Gobiidae family will swim and perch amongst the polyps. Care needs to be taken, however, with SPS corals since the Yellow Clown Goby may nip at the smaller polyps.

For the best care, house single specimens in a 10 gallon or larger aquarium, preferably with branching coral to best recreate the natural habitat of the Yellow Clown Goby. It will rarely demonstrate aggression towards other fish, but will fight with its own kind especially in smaller aquarium systems. Therefore, it is best to keep the Yellow Clown Goby with other docile species.

It is common for the Yellow Clown Goby to spawn in an aquarium. Caution should be exercised if the aquarium contains Acropora sp. or similar SPS corals. The female Yellow Clown Goby will lay her eggs on the underside of the coral’s branch, which will cause tissue recession in that area of the coral. However, under good conditions, the coral will regenerate the lost tissue.

The Yellow Clown Goby’s diet should consist of a variety of brine shrimp, frozen mysis shrimp, table shrimp, and frozen food preparations for carnivores.

Source:  http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=15+31+1441&pcatid=1441

Apr 27

Pink Skunks (Amphiprion perideraion)

These two were added the same day as the Frogspawn! They were so shy that they went into hiding for almost a week. Nearly impossible to get a good shot.

The Pink Skunk fish were one of the only other semi-compatible clownfish that could be put in with the Ocellaris pair. IMHO if you are going to keep any fish of the same family, it is a good idea to get ones that look the most different and are of the same size.

So far these Skunks have gotten together very well with the Ocellaris Clowns. Although I have heard that when it comes to breeding time the aggressiveness will show more. When that time comes I will post an update on behaviour.

Pink Skunks

More information on the Pink Skunk Clowns:

The Pink Skunk Clownfish, also known as the Pink Skunk Anemonefish or False Skunk-striped Anemonefish, has a peach-orange base color with one white stripe behind the head that runs from the nose and down the entire length of the back. Another contrasting white stripe is located just behind the eyes.

It is semi-aggressive towards conspecifics and may be intimidated by boisterous tank mates. A 30 gallon or larger aquarium with many hiding places is desirable. An anemone host such as Stichodactyla mertensii or Heteractis crispa is preferred.

It will breed in an aquarium with or without an anemone host.

The Pink Skunk Clownfish diet should include meaty food items such as chopped shrimp, and frozen herbivore preparations.

Source: http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=15+27+157&pcatid=157

Apr 14

Frogspawn Coral (Euphyllia paradivisa) Added April 9 2009

Hey everyone. Yet another coral has been added to the tank! This time it’s a Frogspawn (Euphyllia paradivisa) which was purchased from Marinescape on April 9th. This is an awesome LPS coral that fully opened the same day it was put in. One of the main tank characteristics for housing this coral is that it does  not want to have too much direct flow. It tends to not get as big and colourful when there is a lot of flow on it.  I have mine about mid level in my 120 gallon which is about 10 inches from the bottom in the rockwork. The skeleton of this coral allows for easy placement in a crevice of live rock. It is away from direct stream of my Tunze pump and is under one of the 250W MH lights.

One thing about this coral is that it is very aggressive towards other corals especially other LPS corals. I have heard stories on forums about it stinging green brains over night. So ensure that  this coral has plenty of space around it and you will have great success.

Frogspawn LPS Coral

Frogspawn LPS Coral

More information on Frogspawns:

The Frogspawn Coral is a large polyp stony coral (LPS) often referred to as the Wall, Octopus, Grape, or Honey Coral. Its polyps remain visible throughout both the day and night, resembling a mass of fish eggs or frog eggs, hence one of its common names Frogspawn. Its coloration is green or brown to tan in color. With its appearance and coloration it would make a nice addition to any reef aquarium.

During the evenings, its sweeper tentacles can extend up to six inches beyond its base into the reef aquarium surroundings. It will sting other neighboring corals in the reef aquarium, therefore, it is best to leave plenty of room between itself and other types of corals. It is moderately difficult to maintain, but it is a popular coral that will thrive under the proper conditions. It will need to have moderate to heavy lighting combined with moderate water movement within the aquarium. For continued good health, it will also require the addition of calcium, strontium, and other trace elements to the water.

The symbiotic algae zooxanthellae hosted within its body provides the majority of its nutritional requirements from photosynthesis. It will also benefit from additional food in the form of micro-plankton or brine shrimp.

Source:  http://liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=597+321+519&pcatid=519

Apr 06

Cooling Fans for Aquarium Canopy – DIY

The Scenario

I’m sure many people out there have experienced the very same issue I have when they finish making their own Halide Canopy… HEAT! When running my aquarium under 4 compact fluorescents, the water temperature was always between 76-78 F. They fist day I completed the halide canopy  the temperature sky rocketed to 83 in under 4 hours!

Although the typical reef temperature in the ocean is around 81 in the summer, the ideal in this hobby is to keep fish stress down. A temperature swing of almost 10 degrees in under 4 hours is not going to cut it.

The Solution

Add ventilation to the canopy using 12V computer fans. and an old DC Adapter almost everyone has lying around.

Parts List:

  1. 1 or 2 12V Computer fans (I chose the Antec 92mm TriCool, very quiet and 3 speeds!)
  2. 1 12V DC Power Adaptor. (Mine is 12V 1A) If you are running multiple fans get one at least 0.5A
  3. Optional: Soldering Iron
  4. Electrical Tape
  5. Wire Strippers or Razor Blade
  6. Wire Cutters or Scissors


Click to Enlarge

Click to Enlarge

1.Cut the end off of the DC Adaptor, peel the wires apart and strip them with the wire strippers or razor blade (be careful not to cut your fingers with the razor blade!).

2. Cut the Molex connector off of the computer fan and strip the wires.

3. Connect each wire separately to the ends of the DC adaptor. (Note: If you are connecting more than one fan, repeat step 2 for each fan and connect each wire directly to each wire on the DC adaptor (Parallel Wiring). This will ensure that each fan will get 12V and will run at the fastest speed.

4. If using a soldering iron, now is the time to solder each of the sides together individually. If you don’t have a soldering iron, use a crimp end or electrical tape.

Click to Enlarge

Click to Enlarge

5. Use electrical tape to make sure all bare wire is covered. Ensure each side is taped individually.

6. Plug the adapter into the wall and watch your fans run!

For best results plug the adapter into the timer for the lights that run the longest. This way when the lights are off, the fans will shut off and reduce excess evaporation in your tank.

The Finished Product

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Click To Enlarge

Good luck.

If you have questions, post a comment with your email address and I’ll be happy to answer them!

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